We explore early harvest, distinct varietals and wine industry trends with sommelier Sergiu Nedelea
In a wine year marked by extreme weather conditions, 2023 has become a chronicle of transformations and challenges for the Romanian wine industry. The record global warmth brought significant changes to the grape ripening process, and the early harvest brought both pleasant surprises and challenges for wine producers. Against this backdrop, we had the privilege of talking to sommelier Sergiu Nedelea, who gives us a detailed insight into the 2023 harvest, the varieties that shone, the obstacles encountered and the directions in which the Romanian wine industry is heading.
What were the prevailing weather conditions in 2023, and how did they influence the grape harvest in different wine-growing regions of Romania?
2023 was the warmest year in the history of weather measurements, say EU researchers. The average global temperature was 1.48 degrees Celsius above the pre-industrial level, far exceeding the previous record of 2016. 2023 was also the warmest year in Romania's history, resulting in an earlier harvest for some grape varieties, with picking starting as early as mid-August. Overall, it cannot be said that it was a particularly favourable year. As we know, the real answer will come when the wines of the 2023 vintage are in the glass!
Which grape varieties were the most successful this year and why?
In Romania, the emphasis is on local varieties, although there are large areas planted with international varieties. Fetească neagră, along with Fetească blanc and Fetească regală, are still the stars. The Zghihara varietal is becoming increasingly and Francusa, when vinified as a sparkling wine, has become particularly trendy. In 2023, Alutus, a variety from Dragaşani, was launched on the market.
Sergiu Nedelea, one of the most famous sommeliers from Romania
Photo: facebook.com/nedelea.sergiu
How would you describe the general profile of Romanian wines produced in 2023? Are there any features or characteristics that are distinctive this year?
The wines of the 2023 vintage, at least the reds, are not yet mature. But we can go a little into the statistics on consumption in 2023, provided by the National Office of Vine and Wine Products. There are signs of maturity in the local wine market, with consumers reducing quantity in favor of quality. Consumption is down by more than 27%, following the same downward trend as production, which, due to bad weather, is down by about 15%.
Were there any specific challenges or problems in the wine production process in 2023, and how were they managed?
Challenges exist all the time, but producers have the maturity and technologies to manage these challenges. Problems with bottles, the obligation to label additives, tax issues, galloping inflation - these are all general problems, but the solutions are often individual!
What are the interesting stories of Romania's 2023 wine year? Are there any wines or vineyards that have attracted particular attention?
Wine in general is a story! New labels have appeared, new wineries have made their appearance, and a new variety I mentioned earlier, Alutus from Dragaşani.
How has the wine market changed in Romania in 2023? Are there any notable trends or changes in consumer preferences? How has the overall quality of Romanian wines evolved in recent years, including in comparison to 2022?
In terms of consumption, it has decreased significantly in 2022, by 27.7% to 4.3 million hl. There were decreases of 33% and 14.1% in volumes respectively for consumption of wine without indication and varietal wine, while for DOC (protected designation of origin) wines consumption decreased by 20% to 921 722 hl. The only category to gain market share, with a volume increase of 21.8%, was GI wines - an indicator that a product is made at least partly in a specific geographical region.
Sergiu Nedelea, one of the most famous sommeliers from Romania
Photo: facebook.com/nedelea.sergiu
What recommendations do you have for those who want to explore Romanian wines in 2023? Are there any wines or vineyards that you would consider unmissable?
I recommend education, my core business is specific vocational training. In order to understand a wine, to enjoy its taste and flavors, education is necessary, i.e. taking courses or wine tourism.
Are there any noteworthy collaborations or innovations in the Romanian wine industry in 2023 that have attracted attention?
It seems that quality wine is the answer. It is worth highlighting the increase in exports for wines with designation of origin and geographical indication, but especially varietal wines, and the decrease in imports by 2% for wines with designation of origin and geographical indication and 67% for those without. Consumers prefer less but better quality wine, in line with global consumption trends.
How do you think the Romanian wine industry will develop in the future, taking into account the trends and changes observed in 2023?
Hard to say in the current context, a year of national elections, conflicts around the world, global warming... but I am convinced that wine will continue to accompany human civilization, as it has done for thousands of years and will comfort and enjoy our daily lives!
Sergiu Nedelea, one of the most famous sommeliers from Romania
Photo: facebook.com/nedelea.sergiu
What are the distinctive characteristics of a top quality wine from a specific wine region?
A top quality wine from a specific wine-growing region is distinguished by distinctive aromas that reflect the local terroir, balance in taste and structure, and a pleasant length of flavor.
How can we match a wine with complex flavors with certain types of food to enhance the taste experience?
To match a wine with complex flavors to food, choose a wine that complements or balances the flavors of the dish, taking into account the tannin level, acidity and body of the wine.
How do you identify and describe a wine with aging potential?
A wine with potential to age and evolve over time, it stands out for its robust structure, well-incorporated tannins and balanced acidity. Wines produced from varieties known to age well may also have greater aging potential.
Sergiu Nedelea, one of the most famous sommeliers from Romania
Photo: facebook.com/nedelea.sergiu
With over 25 years of experience in the hospitality industry, Sergiu Nedelea is not only one of Romania's best-known sommeliers, but also a prolific author and trainer with a solid reputation. Hundreds of published articles, the publication of the books "The Sommelier's Notebook - Guide for aspirants and professionals", "Wine Stories", "The Guide to Romanian Wines", as well as the "Map of Romanian Wines" are his best known publishing activities. And the many generations of new sommeliers who have graduated and continue to graduate from his courses are proof of Sergiu Nedelea's training skills.He is also part of the jury teams in national and international competitions.
